Profe, transfers for textiles are new to me, since when are they made?
Textiles Transfers have been developed since muchisisimo, and originally were made on wax paper, the problem was that if they spent some days and had not applied, the wax paper to ink integrated and never took off, what happens if you print it on paper or vegetal.Ya albanene with your transfer paper or "French paper" designed to offset transfers, these were very peak in the 80's, especially with photographs of artists, as it was printed a selection of color in this system (offset) and then silkscreen printed in a white cake in a closed loop, but not used or the adhesive or adhesive powder liquido.De fact, the use of powder is not essential, it is good to use, but if you use correct temperature and pressure, there should be no problem even without polvo.Si you look on paper, has a side a little more glossy, which is suitable for offset printing, screen printing but there is no difference, the two sides work well
Prof, I am printing ink transfers to several, but the paste is "crazing" or come off, because that happens?
Dime to pre-dry distance between spot, the time you give as temperature
Pre-dry to about 200 degrees (375 Faren) for about 10 seconds or so to about 10 cm of separation between the oven and transfer.
There are several things that are not doing well:
Remember that these pre-drying between spot and not "heal" completely every impression, this is a of the most common mistakes when printing transfers.
We pre-dry "to touch"
As is "to touch "Teacher?
is when touching with the tip of the index finger gently on the posters, it does not stain.
But stack transfers, no stain each other?
No, remember that the inks "Plastisol" start "Gelizarce" to 160 degrees, so if you leave a little pre-dry at 160 degrees, will be manageable, the practice will give you the correct guidance.
And time and distance that I give are the right ones?
Definitely not, the distance over the FAQ are about 4 or 5 cm away from the heat source, and about 4 or 5 seconds of time so that the paper does not wrinkle or shrink and have problems of "record", but as I say, practice is the best teacher
Profe, it is better to use powder or liquid adhesive bonding?
are two things to different applications.Our liquid adhesive is used if you print a shuttle to various inks, but white cake, so that the liquid adhesive "glue" all the ink and get the dust .
If you print a white cake (which is what I recommend even for white textiles) scatter dust on the cake before drying.
Profe, because taking off the shuttle to apply on a dark garment, are many dots?
excess polvo.Es That is very important to hold "the air" with one hand the transfer and "hit" slightly by the non-printed with the one to shake off the excess dust, making sure that fall into the tray where these applications, so that no water is everywhere
And if I do not, the dust is permanently on the garment?
Many times the excess dust falls to the wash but it is very unpleasant to submit a job well, and gives confidence to the client, also makes you think that is ink and not dust.
I transfer off the role of hot or cold?
There are different types of paper that come off the hot or cold or even lukewarm, ask your paper supplier that type is what you're selling.
That temperature, pressure and time should I give when applied to my plate?
plates usually bring the directions to apply the transfers.
In ITESDI usually stick the transfers at 200 degrees (375 Faren) for 15 seconds, and while sticking together, remove the paper came out.
and to "tie", I recommend you spend your oven garment already applied and the transfer of paper, that will cause the ink to become a "gelizar" and better permeate the garment.
In fact, it molds to your fabric and looks like direct printing.
Thanks Prof, I'll follow the prompts.
Ok, as always, luck and remember that "practice makes perfect"
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