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THE TEACHER TALKS OF 'IMPRESSION OF TRANSFERS "

Profe, transfers for textiles are new to me, since when are they made?

Textiles Transfers have been developed since muchisisimo, and originally were made on wax paper, the problem was that if they spent some days and had not applied, the wax paper to ink integrated and never took off, what happens if you print it on paper or vegetal.Ya albanene with your transfer paper or "French paper" designed to offset transfers, these were very peak in the 80's, especially with photographs of artists, as it was printed a selection of color in this system (offset) and then silkscreen printed in a white cake in a closed loop, but not used or the adhesive or adhesive powder liquido.De fact, the use of powder is not essential, it is good to use, but if you use correct temperature and pressure, there should be no problem even without polvo.Si you look on paper, has a side a little more glossy, which is suitable for offset printing, screen printing but there is no difference, the two sides work well

Prof, I am printing ink transfers to several, but the paste is "crazing" or come off, because that happens?

Dime to pre-dry distance between spot, the time you give as temperature

Pre-dry to about 200 degrees (375 Faren) for about 10 seconds or so to about 10 cm of separation between the oven and transfer.

There are several things that are not doing well:

Remember that these pre-drying between spot and not "heal" completely every impression, this is a of the most common mistakes when printing transfers.
We pre-dry "to touch"

As is "to touch "Teacher?

is when touching with the tip of the index finger gently on the posters, it does not stain.

But stack transfers, no stain each other?

No, remember that the inks "Plastisol" start "Gelizarce" to 160 degrees, so if you leave a little pre-dry at 160 degrees, will be manageable, the practice will give you the correct guidance.

And time and distance that I give are the right ones?

Definitely not, the distance over the FAQ are about 4 or 5 cm away from the heat source, and about 4 or 5 seconds of time so that the paper does not wrinkle or shrink and have problems of "record", but as I say, practice is the best teacher

Profe, it is better to use powder or liquid adhesive bonding?

are two things to different applications.Our liquid adhesive is used if you print a shuttle to various inks, but white cake, so that the liquid adhesive "glue" all the ink and get the dust .
If you print a white cake (which is what I recommend even for white textiles) scatter dust on the cake before drying.

Profe, because taking off the shuttle to apply on a dark garment, are many dots?

excess polvo.Es That is very important to hold "the air" with one hand the transfer and "hit" slightly by the non-printed with the one to shake off the excess dust, making sure that fall into the tray where these applications, so that no water is everywhere

And if I do not, the dust is permanently on the garment?

Many times the excess dust falls to the wash but it is very unpleasant to submit a job well, and gives confidence to the client, also makes you think that is ink and not dust.

I transfer off the role of hot or cold?

There are different types of paper that come off the hot or cold or even lukewarm, ask your paper supplier that type is what you're selling.

That temperature, pressure and time should I give when applied to my plate?

plates usually bring the directions to apply the transfers.

In ITESDI usually stick the transfers at 200 degrees (375 Faren) for 15 seconds, and while sticking together, remove the paper came out.

and to "tie", I recommend you spend your oven garment already applied and the transfer of paper, that will cause the ink to become a "gelizar" and better permeate the garment.
In fact, it molds to your fabric and looks like direct printing.

Thanks Prof, I'll follow the prompts.

Ok, as always, luck and remember that "practice makes perfect"

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TEACHER TALKS OF" BLACK T-SHIRT PRINTING ON "THE TEACHER TALKS

-Prof, I need to print a black shirt, I also print black?

"If all the shirts will be black, you can take the bottom of the shirt, which in addition to save a frame, will make the impression is more" soft "touch.

-As I make the selection of colors?

"It's very important to differentiate between the terms" selection "and" Separation "of color.

-What is the difference?

-La "Select Color" is one that is obtained by mechanical means (and now with home printers), p ara to reproduce an image of means tones any printing system, to which must be hatched, or be transformed into printed dots of different sizes at different angles of inclination to overcome the points form the rosette (when four colors) that at first glance makes the image looks continuous tone.

Traditionally angles are: Cyan



105 ° 75 °

Magenta Yellow Black

90 ° 45 °


When the angles of the plot are not correct or when the paper is moving moiré effect is when a rose does not print well and cause confusing images.

"And I can with my printer make that "Select Color"?

"Yes, usually bring a printer to print four-color option

" That is a four-color?

"It's a four-color printing through a positive for each CMYK color (cyan, yellow, magenta and black)

-In screen printing, a color separation is when manually or through the PC, go "separating" (forgive the redundancy) each color, becoming black areas to be printed and adding "screens" or "dots" to areas that want to mingle with each other, we give other shades, or tones of the same color.

"And my printer can not do that?

"No, because the separation done manually, you decide the intensity of" screens "or" dots "as well as augment each color, so at the last stamp ink, is perfectly registered

"I'm not very clear, has some separation to see?

"Sure, just give a click on the image and you will see both color separation and positive form, as well as the printing step

" It looks very simple , but I still like my job that I sample?

"The most important thing to learn is the attitude you have, obivamente the beginning there were failures to make your separation, perhaps two-color repeat a positive, I recommend you keep an eye on your design as a stay, so take it as a basis for, and especially check before making a positive impression of the

"Well I'll try Profe

-Luck and upload your designs to share with others, and remember that

" Practice makes perfect "

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" ASSEMBLY AND MESH REPAIR OF "THE CLASSES OF TEACHER

-Prof, I have to buy frames and mounted force for my work Serigraph or I can do?

"Well, today is very common that those who are dedicated to buy frames Screen printing already completed and ready to emulsify either wood or aluminum, and we have no idea as before, small workshops and some great, they made their own wooden frames and logic, the type of mesh mounted according to their needs.

In the 60's that was when I started in this, it took 2 people to tighten a wood frame (in fact there was no aluminum). A person stretched silk wet (it was the material that was used ) and another was hammering tacks to secure the seda.Posteriormente was changed tack by using staples, but with the tension the mesh was torn, so it was decided to put a strip of cardboard between the clamps and silk


-current use of staples still exists, but they are staples for upholstery, and put a thick strip of material between the clamp and the mesh, so the tension remains.


-With the advent of contact adhesives and glues of 2 parts (liquid and spray) results in better voltage stability and greater resistance to solvents and recyclers


- There are different types of mesh?

"Certainly, we must bear in mind that the basic principle of pattern is that the pressure exerted by the squeegee, squeegee, scraper, on the surface of the frame, ink travez happen to the areas not covered, and if the opening of the mesh is closed (this is determined by the number of threads cm. or inch) will not allow the ink covers the surface to be printed correctly, but on the contrary, if the mesh is very open, spend so much ink to be "dripping" the impression

"So there are inks heavier than others?

-Asi is the range of textile printing inks is very broad, and depending on the components of the ink itself is the consistency that will take and therefore the opening of the mesh will be different in each case


And as mesh will know that I choose?


"There's a basic chart of the different meshes and its application, give a click on the image to see it bigger


"I have some frames that are broken, if I buy the net, myself I can change it?


"Sure dale click the image and you will see a graphic sequence of like riding a mesh



-Prof, cleaning my frame was torn from one side, you can do something or should I change the screen?





"If it is too large, you can repair it so you do not miss the tension and not to do bigger, dale click the image and you will see a simple way

professional "Thanks, I'll try

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" POSITIVE ROLE IN BOND "THE CLASSES OF TEACHER

-Prof, I have to always make a positive for my screen printing work?
-Si, is one of the basics to fix your image on a screen or frame, the quality of your good will depend on the quality of printing.
"And it was always like this?
"Obviously not, in its infancy, blocking the mesh screen printers drawing the image directly into the frame, blocking the areas for where the ink was not to happen, first with egg white, then with shellac or some liquid that was not affected by the ink.
And have always used plastic film positive?
"No human ingenuity always looking for alternatives, either for economy, or not be available to specialized somewhere (the famous fotolitos or PHOTOMECHANIC ) where they develop positive.
There techniques that were used or are using, because that is passed from mouth to mouth, and there are screen printers and designers with the practice have acquired a great ability to do positive.
One technique is to draw with ink or rapidographs on a film with a matte side known as herculene, rapidographs to trace the lines with a brush and fill the black areas
If you have no acetate mate, you can clear acetate sanding, and sanding it to make your positive
is also very popular for both cut film set in the frame, to make hand-cut positive.
"And the slides obtained are useful in laser printer?
"If it is a very good alternative, since the laser printer toner is a plastic base, that is its opacity is very good.
"If I have access to these slides, or I is expensive, or just want to do small runs, is there any alternative?
"Of course, you can print paper albanene or plant in your laser printer, although I would not recommend it, because the toner is not fixed very well to the surface of this material
" Then I can do ?
"Well, you can try a method that we use in ITESDI to make positive in a fast, quality and economic
"I'm going to try

-Ok, give a click on the image, so that a sequence graph you how., And dale click a word in red to For an explanation of their meaning.


professional "Thanks, I'll do





ijav As stated in his commentary, which I appreciate as everyone like to leave, you can use cooking oil, but over time the oil is "arrancia" and leave an unpleasant odor and also darkens and "powders" very easily, and lacquer, having affirmed the "toner", encapsulates the oil

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"Good morning Professor
-Have fun, that I can help you today
_Fijese that emulsify a framework , small circles were formed that prevented the emulsion was even
-Ok, this is due to your frame was not properly degreased
"And as I can degrease professional?
"After having removed recycling and " ghosts "or shadows the previous posters, take a pass with 2 tow soaked in laquer thinner or thinner standard (as may be known in your area).
If despite this (because many times thinner than sell you something greasy) will still leave these circles, before emulsifying, wet a sponge with vinegar, transfer it over the net and rinse, dry them and remove it any grease residue
-Prof, I recycle my frames and ink drops, but I can not remove the "ghost", but I use the recommended fluid, it is always the shadow
"If you let your frame too long (over one month) without recycling, that causes the image to the frame.
A sure way to erase the "ghosts" on your screen is wet two tow in solvent ink vinyl (they sell it where you buy your plastisol inks or textiles) and rubbing, first gently, then rub both sides of the mesh, the smell is rather strong, but worth it because it leaves no trace of the "ghosts."
left to air in a well ventilated area, and when the solvent evaporates, screen clean with laquer thinner, dry with a hair dryer and ready
-

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What is Screen Printing?

Screen printing is the printing system serial oldest known, attributed to the Chinese, even before the silkworm

is not known exactly where, or time, and who invented this printing system, but has found that many paintings found in caves were made using vegetable colors on template placed on the walls.

printing is a printing system which consists of fixing an image on a surface with ink from a brush, roller or squeegee to travez a template, frame or frame with this image previously drawn, blocking those areas where it is desired stamp

The oldest record of this system have been found in China, Japan and Fiji, where people stamped their tissues using banana leaves, previously cut with drawings and, placed on the tissues used a paint plant that colored those areas which had been cut.

With the development of silk frames are covered with this material, are drawn characters and images directly blocking the areas that are not going to be printed and the printing was born there, word composed of the words graphos Sericum = silk = writing, writing travez silk, a name that has lasted almost throughout the world except United States, that if silk screen process, and due to the use of nylon mesh and polyester, has changed its name to screen printing, leaving that of serigraphy only the artistic area, so when you reference to our business in English, we will always use the term screen printers, to avoid confusion